Thanks to my Naples-born uncle Dino Paladino, I fell in love with italian food. It's because of his amazing pasta dishes he served me at Sortino's in Vancouver's Little Italy that I am here in Italy now, writing about food and drink. Here is my article on the best of Naples and nearby Castellammare di Stabia, Sorrento and Positano.
50 Kalò (Naples)
I am a pizza junkie. Proof is me lining up at 50 Kalò before the 7 PM opening along with a handful of German tourists. For those of you know me, I normally eat dinner at 10 PM. In fact, the reason I was there at 7 PM was because it was my only chance to try this well-known pizzeria before my seafood dinner later on with Antonella, Carmen and Anna. The sacrifice of 2 dinners in one night was well worth it. Ciro Salvo’s pizza margherita blew my mind, perhaps the best pizza I’ve had in my life. A soft, flavorful crust, a hypnotic scent of perfectly leavened and cooked dough, San Marzano tomatoes, fior di latte d’Agerola, basil and extra virgin olive oil. The pizza was pure joy and I will be back soon, this time at a normal dinner time.
Sorbillo (Naples)
Gino Sorbillo is star, running an empire of pizzerias in Milano, Rome, NY, Miami, and Tokyo. But it all started in Via dei Tribunali in Naples, where he and is brother Toto makes some of the finest pizza in the world. I visited Via dei Tribunali with Antonella, Carmen and Anna, with whom I share an important bond not just for pizza, but for Matteo Mevio, a dear friend, and the original pizzeria at Marghe Milano. Gino was a mentor to Matteo, who was originally chosen as the first pizzaiolo at Sorbillo Lievito Madre al Duomo. Out of respect for Matteo, and his mother Antonella, a photo of Matteo and Gino is always on display in the pizza kitchen.
Compared to Gennaro Rapido’s rotecarrett in Milano, Gino and Toto’s pizza is slightly smaller and even tastier. Although Gennaro, head pizza chef at Sorbillo Milano, argues that any great pizza chef can replicate a Napolitan pizza outside of Naples, there’s something about the pizza of Sorbillo in Via dei Tribunali that’s magical. The dough is the perfect consistency and the cheese and tomatoes are even more delicious. The proximity of Sorbillo Naples to Agerola and San Marzano is of course an advantage, but I really wonder if there’s something more…the water perhaps?
Margherita at Sorbillo
Gino and Matteo
Concettina ai Tre Santi (Naples)
Ciro and Shane
Among the pizzerie in Naples, Concettina ai Tre Santi offers the best overall restaurant experience. That’s because here there’s much more that just pizza. The charismatic Ciro Oliva will delight you with the best of Naples, from street food, to pasta, to pizza, all inspired by his youth. Our 3 hour lunch began with an orgasmic frittatina di pasta with genovese, an exquisite montanara and a mind blowingly good bagel. Among the pizzas, don’t miss “Il sole della Sanità”, with yellow tomatoes, oregano, maldon salt and mozzarella di bufala.
Ciro’s bagel
frittatina di pasta with genovese
Margherita
Il sole della Sanità
Da Michele (Naples)
The "temple of pizza", Da Michele is probably and most famous pizzeria in Naples and conveniently located 5 minutes from the station. There are only two options at Da Michele, margherita or marinara. I opted for the margherita with extra mozzarella. I can see why Sorbillo Milano pizzaiolo Gennaro Rapido likes it so much as Da Michele's style is similar to his. The crust had perfect consistency and the mozzarella and tomato sauce were delicious.
Di Matteo (Naples)
Although you can dine at Di Matteo, and enjoy a great traditional pizza such as the margherita with bufala shown below, foodies come here for the street food. From the pizza a portafoglio (folded pizza) to the fried delicacies such as frittatina, crocchè and arancini, Di Matteo is the reference point in Via dei Tribunali for take away food meant to be consumed on the spot.
Margherita with bufala
L'Antiquario (Naples)
L’Antiquario is a beautiful speakeasy that first opened its doors in November 2015. Alex Frezza, dressed in an elegant pharmacist's outfit, will guide you though a memorable evening of imbibing. The highlights on my first visit were the well-executed Remember the Maine, La Risposta, and La Risposta alla Risposta and on the next visit, a well-made dry Martini by Dario Tortorella.
Alex and Patrizia; Dario pouring a dry martini
Patrizia with a dry martini at L’Antiquario
Platanos (Naples)
For refreshing change to the classics served at a the standard Italian cocktail bar, stop by Platanos, close by L’Antiquario. This Alex Frezza project focuses on exotic cocktails and food, with a fun vibe and cool staff.
Attanasio (Naples)
In my humble opinion, the best sfogliatelle in Naples..
Piazzetta Milù (Castellammare di Stabia)
At Piazzetta Milù, Izzo brothers Emanuele, Valerio and Maicol bring together diverse but complementary skill sets to offer one of the finest dining experiences in Italy. The cuisine at Milù is modern but inspired by local traditions from Sorrento and the Mediterranean. Opened by their parents Michele and Lucia (Mi + Lu), Milù was initially casual pizzeria, but has evolved into a sophisticated fine dining restaurant over the years.
Valerio and Maicol Izzo
The most important change happened when chef Maicol Izzo returned home to Castellammare di Stabia in 2019, after experiences at the most important restaurants in Europe such as La Torre del Saracino with Gennaro Esposito, Tickets with Albert Adrià, the Dorchester with Alain Ducasse, StreetXo with David Muñoz and the #1 ranked on World’s 50 Best Restaurants, Mirazur with Mauro Colagreco. Together with brothers Emanuele Izzo, awarded the best sommelier by Identità Golose in 2019 and Valerio Izzo, the professional restaurant manager, Maicol has taken Milù to new heights.
As you enter Milù, you’re catapulted directly into the heart of the restaurant. The welcome area directly faces the large kitchen and just below your feet, the transparent floor reveals some of the jewels of the impressive wine cellar below.
A peek at the wine cellar
The kitchen at Milù
The dining room is an elegant space with beautiful white table cloths, and ample space between tables. I opted for the tasting menu, an exhilarating 26-course experience that is the most fun I’ve had at a fine dining restaurant. Each course is beautifully presented by one Valerio or Emanuele. In some cases, chef Maicol makes an appearance to finish some dishes right in front of your eyes. There’s even one cocktail, which is prepared and shaken table side by cocktail lover Valerio.
Despite the classy surroundings, I felt totally at ease at Milù thanks to the playful presentation of the menu and the friendliness of the staff. Every dish was spectacular with not a single miss among the 26 dishes.
The cellar at Milù
Emanuele Izzo, sommelier
Below is the list of dishes, and drinks selected by sommelier Emanuele, whose passion and knowledge of wines, particularly those in the region, are inspirational.
The tasting menu
Fragole e Campari
Via Schito 42: insalata
Tisana di Pomodoro
Insalata Caprese
Croccante, burro e alici
Ricci di mare ed avocado
Melanzana, burrata, pomodoro e ricci
Mezzo pacchero alla marinara
Pane e Ragù
Wagyu, ricci di mare e panna acida
Ventresca e ciliegia
Ostrica e nocepesca
Ceviche
Baccalà croccante e miele piccante
Cannolicchi e carote
Papaccella
Fiore di zucca croccante
Riso e zucchine alla scapece
Tacos di maialino, ostriche e cetriolo
Pesce al limone
Pomodoro e kumquat
Pizza dolce
Catalana
Torta Caprese
Graffetta e melassa di fichi
Patate sale, olio, pepe e lime
Vini: Champagne, Rosé de Meunier – Laherte Freres, Langhe Nebbiolo 2016 – Simone Scaletta, Ischia Bajola 2015 – La Bajola, Jalapeno, lime e coriandolo, Birra Syrentum – Birrificio di Sorrento, Latte di mandorla, cacao e tartufo
I enjoyed the last part of the meal at a table directly in front of the kitchen, where Maicol presented some of the best desserts of my life, including a sweet pizza and the unforgettable Peruvian sweet potato ice cream, salt, extra virgin olive oil, white pepper and lime.
Without a doubt, my dining experience at Milù was one of the best of my life. The dishes, with an elegant combination of flavors based on Maicol’s diverse experiences, were unlike anything I’ve tried in Italy and the memory of this dinner will be with me for years to come.
Highlights at Piazzetta Milù
Via Schito 42: insalata
Schito 42 is the address of the house where they grew up. On the street, the family has a large vegetable garden, which they source for this spectacular dish, which includes raw, cooked, fermented and marinated vegetables. A beautiful contrast in textures, cooking styles and flavors.
Croccante, fior di latte e burro alle alici
A great twist on the classic butter and anchovies on bread. Fresh, savory, soft and crunchy, all in one finger food. Despite the initial fear of making a mess, you will not require any utensils to enjoy this dish.
Melanzana, burrata, pomodoro e ricci
A masterpiece. The grilled eggplant broth is simply hypnotic.
Ceviche messicano di spigola
An elegant reinterpretation of ceviche. Outstanding.
Mezzo pacchero alla marinara.
Maicol’s idea of a marinara pizza in pasta form, with three types of tomatoes, oregano, anchovy bones, black olives and garlic oil. There is even a hint of a burnt smell, to remind you have of the slightly charred crust of the traditional pizza.
Pane e Ragù
The halfway point of the tasting experience will delight you with memories of Sunday lunches with your grandparents (or in my cases, with my friends’ grandparents).
The traditional Neapolitan ragù is simmered for over 10 hours to achieve an enchanting taste. Paired with the fragrant bread, you will be in pure bliss.
Wagyu, caramello di soia e panna acida affumicata.
Wagyu beef prepared in three different ways. Stunning.
Pizza dolce con pasta choux croccante, spuma di burrata, pomodorino con la reduzione di fragola, pepe, olio al basilico, sale, ricotta
Patate sale, olio, pepe e lime (Peruvian sweet potato ice cream, salt, extra virgin olive oil, white pepper and lime)
The best dessert of my life.
Caravella Cafe and Spirits (Castellammare di Stabia)
Peppe
Caravella Cafe and Spirits is an all day bar located in Castellamare di Stabia, between Naples and Sorrento. Originally opened in 1986, Caravella does everything well, including specialty coffee and delicious pastries for breakfast and well-balanced craft cocktails in the evening.
Powered by one of the best spirits collections in Southern Italy, owners Giuseppe “Peppe” and Andrea Ammendola and their skilled bar team of Andrea de Cenzo, Manuel De Marco and Egidio Palladino and have developed a great drink list of twists on classics.
My favorite signature is the Seta Martini with Tanqueray Ten / Grey Goose, Noilly Prat, Citrus Bitter and served ice cold. Although Caravella is set up to be a high-volume bar to serve guests at the (5) bar counter, lounge area and outdoor patio, the drinks are always on point, and you’ll be hard pressed to find a better balanced classic in Campania. Congrats to Peppe and his team for delivering a bar that draws not only a great crowd, but delivers top quality libations.
Miguel, Sossio, Shane, Peppe and Egidio
Top quality ice at Caravella
The beautiful bar counter at Caravella
Sunset outside Caravella
Dry Martini (Sorrento)
The terrace at Dry Martini Sorrento
Celebrating its first anniversary in July 2020, Dry Martini of Sorrento is a spin-off of the legendary Dry Martini of Barcelona of Javier de las Muelas. Dry Martini Sorrento is situated on the rooftop of the Majestic Palace hotel, owned by Giulia Rossano and Lucio D'Orsi.
Although the trademark martini counter of Dry Martini is still present, the summer terrace at Dry Martini Sorrento has a much different look than the dimly-lit classic cocktail bar in Barcelona. The terrace overs a breathtaking view of the Gulf of Naples. Make sure to get to Dry Martini before the sun goes down, as you will be treated to one of the most spectacular sunsets in the world. During the day, you can also appreciate the beautiful one-hectare property of the Majestic Palace hotel, with lemon and olive trees, which Lucio and his team use to make their signature Dry Martini.
Other than the Dry Martini, the cocktail list features many variations on the Martini, and numerous signatures which can also be found at the other Dry Martini bars. To enjoy the same great cocktails at home, Dry Martini offers beautiful (3) take away versions of their drinks. Other than the well-made cocktails from Lucio and his skilled bartending team of Carmelo and Dario, the food is a must at Dry Martini. Thanks to the world-class cuisine inside Don Geppi (a tribute to Giulia’s father Giuseppe), a Michelin starred restaurant inside the Majestic Palace hotel, the aperitivo food is exquisite at Dry Martini Sorrento. I would go as far as saying it’s the best aperitivo food I’ve had at any cocktail bar in the world. Chef Mario Affinita is responsible for the food offering in the entire structure, including the hotel, Dry Martini and Don Geppi. Although Chef Mario was absent during my summer visit, Lucio did an admirable job replicating his recipes. Don’t miss the Bikini, a warm sandwich with prosciutto crudo, mozzarella and black truffle.
Bikini sandwich - Photo Lauren Caramico
The best aperitivo food on the planet
The view at Dry Martini (Photo Giulia Rossano)
Carmelo and I at Dry Martini
Me and the team at Dry Martini
Dario and the martini counter at Dry Martini
Lucio
SHUB (Sorrento)
Linear cocktails
SHUB was conceived by two greats in the Campania food and beverage scene, Giuspeppe Ammendola (Caravella Cafe and Spirits), one of the best bars in the region and Valerio Izzo, owner and manager of Piazzetta Milù, an outstanding Michelin-starred restaurant in Castellammare.
The first bar at SHUB is located on the ground floor, which you will see as you enter. This space is meant for an easy aperitivo and features a modern bar counter and a large sharing table, a raw kitchen and a wine list with over 150 references. The cocktail offer is focused on the Italian aperitivo ritual, with a rock and roll reinterpretation of the great classics.
On the lower floor, guests are swept into an entirely different dimension, with sophisticated cocktails, spirits and champagne. Behind the main bar, an elegant and modern counter featuring four comfortable bar stools is bar manager Sossio Del Prete (ex-Octavius, Milano). The constant research in the in-house laboratory allows Sossio and the bartending team of Salvatore Russo, Alberto Ferraro, Luciano Barretta and Gianmarco Guadagni to continuously develop new flavors for an ever-evolving drink list.
For an even more intimate experience, turn left at the bar counter and walk down a few steps to the (2, 3) lower den, the highlight of SHUB. The sexy and modern lighting, art and décor reminds me of the restaurant Contraste Milano but with an edgy Korova Milk Bar feel. But instead of Moloko plus, you can savor one of Sossio’s cocktails, which follow the “Linear Cocktail” philosophy, aiming to achieve the maximum expression of taste and flavors without any unnecessary frills. Cocktails don’t come with a garnish, not due to laziness or cost savings, but to emphasize the nuances of the liquid in your cup. The elegant glassware (4) is a sight to behold and the ice is crystal clear, on par with the best ice programs in the country.
Of the signatures, don’t miss the Bloond champagne is a modern take on the classic Bloody with clarified tomato water and barley miso, vodka with freeze-dried strawberries and salted caramel, and a top of champagne. Another spectacular drink is Peach Please with cachaça, limoncello, lemon juice, gomme syrup, percoca ketchup and rhubarb bitter.
Alberto, Salvatore and Sossio
Sossio and Shane
Peach please!
Bloond champagne
Shane, Anna and Valerio
Buca di Bacco (PosItano)
For honest and delicious local seafood and pasta, with a spectacular view of Positano, you can’t go wrong with Buca di Bacco. Thank you to Valerio and Anna for showing me this restaurant and the beautiful Amalfi coast.
Anna
