I visited Cape Town in December 2019, as part of a collaboration with the University of South Africa and UNESCO. Normally I visit solo, but through an important bilateral physics project between Italy and South Africa, I was able to come with my supervisor Roberta Ramponi, collaborator Ottavia Jedrkiewicz and student Argiro Giakoumaki. Below is a recap of our best food and drink in the most beautiful city in the world, Cape Town.
Follow these links for previous articles on 2017 and 2019 visits.
Wine Farms
Natte Valleij (STELLENBOSCH)
In times gone by, Natte Valleij Farm was known for its brandy and had one of the largest cellars in the region. However, the farm stopped producing wine in the 1950s. It wasn’t until the 2005 that the current owners, the Milner family, started producing wine again at Natte Valleij. Everything here is done by hand, just as it was in the good old days. Alexander Milner, the young and easygoing winemaker at Natte Valleij, aims to create remarkable wines without any special trickery. Alexander is best known for his strong passion for Cinsault, a French aromatic grape variety considered by many to be only useful for blending. But thanks in part to Alexander, Cinsault is making a comeback.
Alexander, who studied winemaking and at Stellenbosch University, has given Cinsault the respect it deserves. On his trusty bike, he has sought out forgotten patches of old vines of Cinsault in The Cape winelands. Using traditional wine making methods with a completely hands-on approach, Alexander has come up with some mouthwatering Cinsault wines that taste of red fruits and spices and have enough structure to be aged well. Milner offers four different site-specific varietal Cinsault bottlings: Simonsberg-Paarl, Darling, Swartland and Stellenbosch, Alexander also bottles an aromatic and juicy blend of Cinsault from the four different old bush vine sites. All of the bottlings offer outstanding drinkability and are great as “session” wines, also thanks to their lower ABV compared to big boys like Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz.
Thanks to Gavin Withers for bringing me to Natte Valleij, the highlight of the 20 something wine farms I visited on the trip. Thanks also to Gavin for the beautiful photography.
De Grendel (CAPE TOWN)
The views of Table Mountain and Cape Town from the long glass encased verandah of the De Grendel Tasting Lounge and Stoep are possibly the most spectacular of any wine farm in the Cape. Look out over the vineyards to the magnificent view of Table Mountain, Cape Town city and the Atlantic Ocean, or chill in the relaxed lounge atmosphere.
De Grendel offers a wide array of wines including MCC Brut, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Pinotage and Shiraz. However, you’ll want to taste the Sir David Graff 2014, dedicated to Sir David Pieter De Villiers Graaff, the 1st Baronet of Cape Town. Matured for 16 months in French oak barrels before blending, the wine is 58% Shiraz, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Petit Verdot. After blending, it was returned to the same barrel for an additional aging of 6 months. The complex wine has an aging potential of 20 years, and has a beautiful deep ruby garnet colour, with a bouquet of cedar wood and black plum. On the palate, you’ll get rich plum and cassis with along finish with sikly tannins.
Thank you to Douglas Swanson for a world-class tasting and the Withers family for the stunning photos.
Anthonij Rupert (Franschhoek)
A must visit for the Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, a powerful, leathery wine with potent tannins.
Asara Wines (STELLENBOSCH)
Don’t miss Avalon, a juicy pinotage blend (63% pinotage, 37% shiraz) with fruitcake spice on the nose and palate.
Tokara (STELLENBOSCH)
Perhaps the most stunning backdrop for a wine tasting on the trip, Tokara focuses on Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The highlight of the tasting was the Director’s Reserve White with 69% Sauvignon blanc and 31% Sémillon. Passion fruit and grapefruit on the nose, this is pleasant afternoon wine for the summer months.
Babylonstoren (Simondium)
A must visit for tourists, Babylonstoren is a massive 200-hectare farm where owner Karen Roos has developed the ultimate luxury farm, with three restaurants, a spa, a wine-tasting room, boathouse, hotel and a beautiful 3.5-hectare garden. This is place is great for the soul - there is an amazing sense of serenity walking around the property. Despite the commercial nature of Babylonstoren, it is well-integrated with the natural surroundings to maintain a charming authenticity.
Thank you Caitlin for bringing me to this lovely place.
Jordan (Stellenbosch)
Another stunning location in Stellenbosch, Jordan offers one of the best restaurants in the region, along with a hypnotic cheese room to close the meal in style. Of the many bottlings, you’ll want to try the Nine Yards chardonnay with hints of lime and oak spice. Thanks to Melanie Kahts for her warm hospitality even in her absence. <3
DeMorgenzon (Stellenbosch)
We had a fantastic wine tasting experience at DeMorgenzon thanks to our host Kudzai, our outgoing and always smiling host that afternoon. Check out the Reserve Chenin Blanc, a well-balanced crisp wine with lush fruit on the palate.
Wine bars
Publik (Cape Town)
Publik is a wine bar in Cape Town focusing primarily on natural, hipster-friendly wines. No surprise that this is a favorite haunt of Caitlin and Odette. <3
They also offer tasty charcuterie and cheeses (don’t miss the burrata!). Although I have limited knowledge of this category of wines, I didn’t feel out of place here, as the staff kindly guided me through their interesting range of wines by the glass. One word of advice: don’t mention to them that you’re a closet Sauvignon Blanc lover.
Openwine (Cape Town)
A great wine bar in downtown Cape Town that offers a wide range of styles. Friendly service and great sharing plates to enjoy while sipping on your wine.
Coffee
Origin (Cape Town)
The most well-known specialty coffee bar in Cape Town, Origin first opened its doors in a De Waterkant brick warehouse in 2006.
Origin’s goal was to create a center for coffee excellence for all of Africa, the most important continent in the world for coffee production. In addition to introducing customers the specialty coffee and lighter roasting methods, Origin founded a barista academy, that has successfully trained over 3,000 of the top baristas on the continent.
Origin has expanded to three locations in Cape Town and one in Johannesburg but I urge you to visit their original HQ in De Waterkant. There you will find the roastery and a welcoming brew bar, where you can experience alternative brew methods from the top baristas in the country.
Thank you Olwethu for the great coffee and recommendation to try Rosetta.
Rosetta (Cape Town)
Shannen Mackay brewed one of my favorite cups of coffee all year with a San Francisco Honduras natural at Rosetta in the Silo district on the waterfront. Shannen is reason alone to visit Rosetta alone - she’s not only a talented barista, but an adorable person. Hope to visit you again soon Shannen!
Cocktails
The House of Machines (Cape Town)
For the most fun you can have at a cocktail bar in Cape Town, hit up The House of Machines. Head bartender Charné will ensure you have well made classic while the fun-loving crowd will make sure you have a great time. It’s impossible not to have a good time here, and more thank likely you will make some new friends by the end of the night.
The Art of Duplicity (Cape Town)
The Art of Duplicity is a true speakeasy. It’s hard as hell to find. Once you get to the main door, there’s a password that even I don’t know. Once you get in, everything feels authentic 1920s. The gorgeous clothes donned by the staff, the live music, the look of the bar. Unlike some speakeasies around the world, every little detail was considered at The Art of Duplicity to truly make you feel like you’re inside a classy prohibition era bar. The bar manager Brent Perremore, one of the best bartenders on the continent, has put together another stellar drink list, including my favorite cocktail of the year, Niwatori Tea. Featuring Nikka coffey grain whisky, oyster mushroom infused Jerez sherry, spicy tea syrup, Kombu bitters, Heston Blumenthal clarified chicken comsommé, this umami bomb is the perfect fusion of kitchen and bar.
Cause Effect (Cape Town)
The experimental Cause Effect has changed address, moving from Kloof Street to the touristic waterfront. The change of scenery was risky move by owner Kurt Schlechter given that the average waterfront customer isn’t interested in craft cocktails. On my first visit, I was happy to see a nice mix of clientele in a bar that’s been given an upgraded look compared to its former digs. Drinks were on point and the service was courteous.
The Athletic Club & Social (Cape Town)
A historic multifloor restaurant and bar, the industry favorite The Athletic Club hosted a special tasting of Craigellachie 51, a 51 year old single malt whisky.
The tasting was part of Bar 51, a travelling pop-up that toured the world to bring 1,000 drams to 1,000 whisky fans. I was very fortunate to be included on the South African stop (thanks Caitlin!). This first of a kind tasting of the oldest and rarest Craigellachie was thanks to the distillery’s belief that whisky is made for drinking and not for sitting on a shelf collecting dust. This unique experience was hosted by Global Brand Ambassador Georgie Bell. In addition, SA Bacardi BA Aidan Powrie was in attendance to guide us through a tasting of younger Craigellachie bottles and Sabrina Traubner, bartender at The Athletic Club, made us some delicious Craigellachie cocktails.
