Ronin / by shane eaton

Ronin is a one-stop, multi-floor destination for an immersive journey through Japan’s culinary and entertainment subcultures. Located in a neo-liberty building in Via Vittorio Alfieri 17, Ronin’s interior design elements were inspired by the dynamic period between the 70s and 90s, when Japan truly opened up to the world. At Ronin, you will find popular minimalist aesthetics and Japanese consumer technology that inspired the western world, but also the a mix of Western creations that inspired modern Japan such as neon lights and modernist elements.

The group behind Ronin is Salva Tu Alma, well known for the popular Peruvian hot spot Pacifico in Milano and Roma. The architectural design was led by the Design Unit of Salva Tu Alma together with Studio SC+. The construction of Ronin took 2 years to complete, opening to the public at the beginning of 2022. The project also includes the redevelopment of Piazza Morselli in front of Ronin, which will host a small park and have tables for those who prefer open air dining.

Ronin features an unprecedented four floors of restaurant and bar spaces, which feel like small parallel universes, all linked together by a winding staircase. From the casual street bar on the ground floor, to the higher end experiences on the upper floors, Ronin at times feels like a film. Part Akira, Lost in Translation, Twin Peaks, The Shining and Blade Runner, each floor offers a unique experience and design, but there are common elements which link the concept together such as neon lights and geometric mirror mosaics.

On the ground floor is the most easy going part of the structure called Piccolo Ronin, which offers delicious izakaya snacks such as gyoza, yakitori and fried food together with Asian-inspired twists on classic cocktails. The cocktail program at Ronin is overseen by bar manager Riccardo Speranza and head bartender Valerio Sordi with the overall management handled by GM Roberto Tibaldo. One of the most popular drinks is the Hard Shake, a twist on the Campari shakerato with wasabi. Although the name of the cocktail was inspired by Kazuo Uyeda’s famous shaking method, Piccolo Ronin’s bartender Caterina Gu uses the reverse dry shake, just as they do at Camparino, to achieve the right amount of foam and texture in the drink. To set the mood at Piccolo Ronin is the Listening Bar, where DJ sets are curated by Ultimo Tango with a vintage hi-fi system.

Walking up the stairs to the first floor, we find Robata, a Japanese-inspired restaurant and grill with includes the Dragon’s Room, a dedicated room for group dinners and private events. The cuisine at Robata is directed by Michelin starred chef Luigi Nastri.

The cocktail aficionado will be attracted by the second floor, home to Madame Cheng’s, a small cocktail bar led by head bartender Valerio Sordi and bartender Dario Baturi, who have developed sophisticated oriental-inspired cocktails suitable for both aperitivo and after dinner. The bar was named after Madame Cheng, a ferocious Chinese pirate who was active in the South China Sea in the early 1800s. Valerio dedicated one of his signatures to Madame Cheng – Shih Yang, the pirate’s maiden name, is a drink with the Chinese spirit Baijiu, an Asian spice cordial, lychee juice and a top a sparkling water which is built over ice in a panda mug.

The second floor is spread over 200 square meters, and other than Madame Cheng’s features four private karaoke rooms and a future Omakase restaurant called Shokunin. This fine dining experience will seat only eight diners per evening and offer one of the most extravagant sushi dinners in the city.

If you’re one of the lucky few, you can also access Arcade on the third floor, a member’s only area designed by Marsica Fossati. The large intimate and private environment features vintage furnishings with a classical English taste. Although we cannot reveal much about the interior, Valerio Sordi has given us a sneak peek at the ambitious drink menu that will served to members at Arcade. The highly conceptual Arcade drink list is built on 5 pillars that give a snapshot of Japanese culture the past 50 years: art, music, politics, spiritualism and gambling. A family of aromas has been assigned to each pillar: floral, fruity, herbaceous, earthy and non-alcoholic, respectively.  From the herbaceous section dedicated to politics is Gokudo, from the ancient name of the Yakuza. This herbaceous, fresh and slightly bitter drink combines Valerio’s passion for sake and fermentation.  Sake Junmai "Sogen Sword Of Samurai" is stirred together with Australian Whisky, Sencha Tea, Artemisia Kombucha fermented for 5 days, sugar syrup and Pernod, and strained in a tumbler over a large ice cube.

Without a doubt, Ronin is one of the most exciting new openings of 2022 in Italy. One can imagine spending the entire evening here, with snacks at Piccolo Ronin followed by an omakase dinner at Shokunin and after dinner drinks at Madame Cheng’s, in a completely immersive setting that will trick you into thinking you are in Shanghai or Tokyo.

The House of Ronin

Caterina Gu prepares Hard Shake at Piccolo Ronin

Private room at Robata (photo Ronin)

Madame Cheng’s (photo Ronin)

Dario Baturi at Madame Cheng’s

Karaoke room (photo Ronin)

Shih Yang at Madame Cheng’s (photo taken at Shokunin)

Valerio Sordi at Arcade

Gokudo at Arcade (photo Dario Baturi)