Alfredo since 1964 / by shane eaton

looking forward but always respecting tradition :: 8.5/10 :: €50 antipasto, first and second course and glass of wine

Alfredo since 1964, whose original name was Gran San Bernardo, is one of the most historic restaurants in Milano. Many of the milanese elite have passed through its doors but as things often go in the restaurant business, good things must come to an end.

Aiming to recapture the initial glory of this nostalgic restaurant, owners Stefano Pini and his brother Enrico along with Paolo Annoni have taken over the restaurant. Joining them is the thirtysomething chef Fabrizio Frongia who intends on respecting tradition by offering the best of milanese cuisine but also introducing innovative dishes to his customers as time progresses. 

The goal of the new team at Alfredo is to recapture the Michelin star, previously won in 1968. Thanks to my friends Francesco and Alessia of the blog Cucina con Stile, I was given an invite to an exclusive preview of the menu at Alfredo. At my table were Francesca of A Milano Puoi and Serena of The Peter Pan Collar.

The dinner started with mondeghili, which are meatballs made of minced meat. Fabrizio's rendition of the traditional milanese dish was excellent. Next up was the risotto alla milanese with ossobuco. The tender and savory ossobuco (cross-cut veal shanks) was a lovely accompaniment to the saffron-based risotto. Fabrizio respected tradition by including ox marrow to this staple of milanese cooking.

The highlight of the meal was Fabrizio's Orecchia d'Elefante (Elephant ear), also known as cotoletta alla milanese (breaded veal cutlet). The thick and juicy cut of veal was perfectly tender and easily the best I've ever had, a sentiment echoed by Francesca.

For those looking for classic milanese cooking in an elegant but relaxing environment, Alfredo is a great choice. Given its nice location in the Sempione area of Milano, the prices are quite reasonable at Alfredo, with the risotto with ossobuco costing only €23.

  mondeghili

mondeghili

 Risotto alla milanese con Ossobuco

Risotto alla milanese con Ossobuco

 L'Orecchia d'Elefante (Cotoletta alla Milanese)

L'Orecchia d'Elefante (Cotoletta alla Milanese)

 Si mangia!

Si mangia!