Montreal
I had the privilege of attending the Montreal Cocktail Festival (MCF) from May 18–21, 2025. A heartfelt thank you to Kevin Demers and Gregory Buda of MCF, as well as Karina Mair of Michter’s, Los Siete Misterios, and Farmer’s, for your generous support. It had been nearly 20 years since my last visit, so there was plenty of catching up to do—especially with Montreal’s vibrant and ever-evolving bar scene.
Here are some of my favorite drinking experiences from the trip.
Marked by only a clandestine red light deep within a graffiti-lined alley, the Atwater Cocktail Club (ACC) is a study in dark glamour. While the entrance may prove elusive even for seasoned speakeasy devotees—this writer nearly ended up on the fire escape instead of turning left past the doorman—the interior is pure reward. Once inside, guests are met with a beautiful, intimate space where sleek marble, shiny silver banquettes, and mirrored ceilings catch the candlelight, immediately evoking a chic, vintage French discotheque. Overseeing this temple of mixology is the inimitable Kate Boushel, Director of Beverage & Education for the Barroco Group, whose dedication to hospitality and local flavours underpins the entire, exceptional program.
Beatrice at ACC
In the heart of Montreal’s Little Italy, Bar Bello offers a perfect dose of transportive fantasy, establishing itself as the city’s premier destination for the quintessential Italian aperitivo ritual. The concept—a love letter to mid-century Italian social clubs and the art of the bittersweet—is instantly immersive, realized by a design that pairs strikingcheckered floors and warm, intimate lighting. Yet, the high-low genius of the bar is best captured by its crown jewel: a meticulously retrofitted 1980s Coca-Cola dispenser, which now serves a selection of exquisite, pre-batched Negroni variations on tap, transforming the classic cocktail into a playful, theatrical event. This focus on tradition, refined through innovation, is smoothly executed by Bar Manager Arnaud Savard and his team, who ensure that every Americano, every plate of high-quality Italian cicchetti, and every pull from the legendary Negroni machine contributes to an atmosphere where la vita è bella is not just a slogan, but a lived experience.
In Montreal’s bustling downtown core, Bar Bisou Bisou is a study in sun-drenched European elegance, seamlessly blending Parisian café culture with Mediterranean sophistication. Under the direction of industry legends Rob Weeks, Gregory Buda, and Kevin Demers, the focus elevates low-ABV protagonists such as sherry and vermouth. This approach ensures the bar maintains impeccable standards, delivering flawless classics alongside inventive, sessionable aperitifs designed for free-flowing conversation and true joie de vivre.
Deep within the Golden Square Mile, the Cloakroom is a chic, modern speakeasy experience reserved for 25 fortunate guests. Stepping through the innocuous entrance, you enter a luxurious, dimly lit sanctuary. The design is one of classic, dark restraint, where every detail—from the slick marble countertops to the plush, velvety seating—serves only to amplify the craft unfolding at the bar, echoing a glamorous, bygone era where discretion was paramount.
Overseen by beverage director Andrew Whibley, the cocktail list at the Cloakroom is a conversation, not a catalog. There are no menus to peruse; instead, the bar team, highly trained in the art of mixology, engages each guest individually to craft a bespoke liquid experience tailored precisely to their mood and palate. Backed by a cellar boasting one of Canada’s most expansive collections of vintage amari and bourbons, every custom-ordered drink—from a smoky mezcal riff to a pre-Prohibition classic—feels less like a pour and more like a private, perfectly fit ceremony.
The bar team at Cloakroom
The Coldroom is the quintessential Montreal speakeasy, forcing its guests to earn their perfectly stirred libation by first finding it. Forget street numbers; the unmarked black door, tucked away in the historic basement of a 19th-century cold storage warehouse. Once granted passage, the reward is immediate: a stunning, subterranean sanctuary where the design thoughtfully preserves the building’s industrial past. Rough-hewn concrete, exposed brick, and heavy wood beams create a moody, intimate cavern that feels both historically grounded and utterly current. This warm, sophisticated mixology, driven by the vision of co-owner Kevin Demers, transcends the typical cocktail experience. The bar team shines by crafting drinks designed to evoke genuine sensory memories, ensuring that The Coldroom is more than just a secret spot; it is a lively celebration of cocktail tradition, where deep expertise and genuine hospitality converge beneath the cobblestone streets of Old Montreal.
Karina enjoying a stirred down concotation at the Coldroom
The moment you step into Le French Line is a direct transit to a chic Parisian arrondissement, a concept that transcends the typical bistro experience by pairing sophisticated French brasserie fare with an equally rigorous beverage program. This escape is made all the more dramatic by its incredible setting: the meticulously restored ninth floor of the former Eaton’s department store (now the Montreal Eaton Centre), which includes the Île de France restaurant and Le French Line Bar. This historic space, designated a heritage site and inspired by the dining room of the transatlantic liner SS Île de France, is a symphony of timeless Art Deco elegance. It balances warm wood paneling with soft lighting, immediately evoking the classic refinement of the Île-de-France region in France, a world away from the shopping bustle eight floors below.
Anchoring this polished atmosphere is the meticulous vision of Andrew Whibley, the acclaimed mind behind Cloakroom Bar, who brings his signature commitment to precision and craft to every aspect of the drinks menu. Whibley’s influence is immediately evident in the cocktail structure, which favors technique over novelty, presenting classics and their subtle variations with immaculate form. Le French Line is a masterclass in elegant hospitality, where the flawless drinks serve as an elegant backdrop to an evening of unhurried, Gallic perfection within a Montreal landmark reborn.
Andrew preparing a drink at Ile de France, the sister restaurant to Le French Line
A daytime view of Le French Line Bar
