Today, I had the honor of attending an exclusive lunch in a private room at Voce Aimo e Nadia, celebrating the 60th anniversary of two historic Santa Sofia wines: Gioè and Montegradella. These exceptional Valpolicella wines were paired with the exquisite creations of chef Lorenzo Pesci, in an event hosted by Veronique Enderlin of Les Enderlin & Partner, wine consultant Anna Caprini, and Luciano Begnoni of Santa Sofia.
The story of Gioè began in 1967, when Giancarlo Begnoni, winemaker and owner of Santa Sofia, was captivated by an Amarone from Monte Gradella: a wine with an intense ruby hue, layered aromas, and a full, harmonious taste. first Gioè was produced from the 1964 vintage, and since then, it has been crafted only in exceptional years, when Corvina, Corvinone, and Rondinella grapes reach perfect ripeness in a 3-hectare vineyard situated between 195 and 325 meters above sea level. Following 100 days of drying, the wine matures for 42 months in oak barrels and at least four years in the bottle, yielding an Amarone of remarkable structure and personality—ideal with rich meats or aged cheeses such as Storico Ribelle.
Montegradella Valpolicella Classico Superiore is cultivated on 24 hectares of vineyards between Fumane and Marano, on limestone and marl soils. First produced in 1965, it was designed to elevate Valpolicella wines to the prestige of Tuscany and Piedmont through careful oak aging and bottle refinement. With a 30-day drying period and 18 months in wood, the wine develops an intense, harmonious profile with notes of plum, cherry, and vanilla—elegant, versatile, and balanced.
The wine-paired lunch at Voce Aimo e Nadia was one of the finest I’ve experienced in years. Highlights included heavenly tubettini with lamb ragu paired with the refined and balanced Montegradella Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2022, and pigeon en croute with mushrooms and foie gras accented with lavender, perfectly complemented by th full-bodied, complex, and velvety Gioè Amarone 2016.
Two “fuori menu” surprises further elevated the experience, including a 1967 Montegradella Valpolicella Classico Superiore, which retained remarkable vibrancy despite its age. Between courses, Lorenzo Pesci paid homage to Aimo with the iconic Zuppa Etrusca—a soup that may well be the best I’ve ever tasted.
Amarone Gioè and Montegradella Valpolicella Classico Superiore exemplify Santa Sofia’s distinctive style and harmonized beautifully with the dishes at Voce Aimo e Nadia. Today, Luciano Begnoni continues his father Giancarlo’s tradition, emphasizing sustainability and innovative cellar practices to produce long-lived, characterful wines of authentic quality.
Luciano Begnoni of Santa Sofia
Montegradella 2022 with tubettini with lamb ragu
Chef Lorenzo Pesci with Torta delle Rose
The Santa Sofia expressions tasted at Voce
