Trippa / November 30, 2017 by shane eaton

quinto quarto at its best :: 10/10 :: €50 for all you could ever want

"Quinto quarto", which means the "fifth quarter", is the offal of butchered animals. This tradition comes from Rome. Until modern day, the division of meat in Rome was made in the following way: the first "quarto" was sold to the rich nobles, the second for the clergy, the third for the Bourgeoisie and the fourth "quarto" was for the soldiers. The lowest class proletariat could afford only the entrails, the "quinto quarto".

Diego Rossi, with an impressive CV which includes stints Michelin-starred restaurants such as St. Hubertus and Locanda Margon, decided to open Trattoria Trippa to pay tribute to the traditional no frills way of cooking in Italy. He wanted to put more emphasis on the delicious but often discarded parts of meat and fis.

I first met Diego Rossi at 1930 cocktail bar in Milano. I knew Diego had come up with their latest recipe for the Tartare burger with asinello (donkey) meat but I didn't know much more than that. That evening, Diego told me what Trippa was all about, and I was excited to stop by to try his reinvented Old School approach to cooking. Although it took me a while to finally make it, I'm sure glad I did.

I miraculously landed a place at the bar counter (note: reservations in advance are essential), the best spot in the restaurant. From here you can admire Diego as he works the tonnato siphon and directs his dynamic kitchen. Instead of ordering from the menu, I decided to put my faith in the chef, opting for an Omakase experience at Trippa.

The first dish, trippa fritta (fried tripe), should come as no surprise. The namesake dish at Trippa didn't disappoint. The tripe was fried perfectly with a crunchy exterior covering the wonderfully tasty tripe inside. Spectacular!

Next up was the signature vitello tonnato (veal with tuna sauce), with an incredibly tender veal and a delicious tuna sauce. Without a doubt, this is the best vitello tonnato I've ever had. The secret is the light and airy tuna sauce, which is whipped with the help of a pressurized siphon.

The third dish, tartare di cavallo e insalata di carciofi (horse tartare and artichoke salad), was my favorite of the night, which is a testament to chef's ability to take dishes we are afraid of, or are perhaps aren't used to eating, and turning them into a joy for our palates. Growing up in Canada, we simply don't eat horse. I've tried horse once in my life and was not a fan. But this tartare was succulent, maybe even better than beef!

The Ravioli al brasato di guancia alla Barbera e mele cotogne (Ravioli with beef cheek braised with Barbera and quince) was a delight (half portion shown below). On my first bite, I was inspired to immediately let chef Diego know how awesome these ravioli were. If you happen to spot this savory dish on the monthly-changing menu at Trippa, order it cazzo!!!

Next up, spalla di montone, crema di topinambour e bergamotto (pulled mutton shoulder, cream of Jerusalem artichoke and bergamot). The mutton was slightly crunchy but very flavorful. Coupled with the tasty artichoke cream, this was one of my favorite dishes of the night.

The oddest dish of the night was Polenta e lingua d'asina brasata al dragoncello (polenta with brasato made with donkey tongue with tarragon). Brasato with polenta is one of my favorite dishes of Northern Italy but it is typically made with beef. In this case, Diego has opted for donkey's tongue, which has an interesting texture and adds an exciting twist to this classic Piedmont specialty.

To close the memorable meal was midollo alla brace (bone marrow), another signature at Trippa. This fatty delicacy is a feast to both the eyes and palate. For extra taste, Diego prepares it with rosemary and gives the customer the option to add even more kick with kosher salt. I can think of no better way to close the adventurous and delicious meal at Trippa.

Thanks to Diego and the staff for a wonderful experience at what is surely one of the top restaurants in the city. Although the trattoria-style experience may be considered too casual for voters, it wouldn't surprise me if one day Trippa lands the coveted star.

Dabass / November 28, 2017 by shane eaton

andrea marroni’s got game :: 10/10 :: €40 for tasting menu and wine

I was first introduced to Chef Andrea Marroni’s cooking at Barba, the hip cocktail bar with a small kitchen in Via San Gregorio. Upon news of Andrea starting a new project Dabass, in Porta Romana, it was my top priority to stop by before I left on my around the world travel in December and January.

Andrea’s focus at Barba was on using the best meat, fish and vegetables and legumes to make exquisite dishes. Andrea goes slightly against the grain in Italy, as he is a big proponent (like me) of sous-vide cooking to get the most flavor out of his ingredients. Sous-vide is still somewhat of a black sheep for Italian chefs, who often don’t sway to far from century long tradition. At Dabass, Andrea compliments sous-vide with a traditional gas stove top to tweak the best dishes from Italian tradition or to execute completely new and exciting dishes.

Dabass means "giù da basso" (downstairs) in Milanese dialect and is an ode to Andrea's grandmother, who lived downstairs. She inspired Andrea with her simple and friendly approach to cooking and hospitality, which is clearly evident at Dabass in Milano.

In Via Piacenza 13, Dabass is neighbor to the well-known The Spirit cocktail bar. The Art Deco-inspired interior at Dabass features a rectangular floor space with several small tables and a slick black and white tiled bar counter, where you can enjoy both well-crafted cocktails and Andrea’s celebrated cooking. The vibe is enhanced at Dabass by the small cushioned seating area outside. As you walk up to Dabass, you’ll often find Porta Romana hipsters milling around the entrance on a smoke break or enjoying an Old Fashioned cocktail.

I was very happy to see that Ilaria Bonato, a promising bartender from Padova, has joined forces with head bartender Robi Tardelli at Dabass. Ilaria, I promise to try your twist on the Tommy's next time I stop by!

Old Fashioned and Whiskey Sour at Dabass

The menu at Dabass is exactly how it should be, simple. The small single page lists only eight dishes, four of which are medium-sized dishes and part of the €30 tasting menu. You can also choose from four more substantial dishes from the “fuori carta” section, with prices ranging from 15€ to 18€. I was very impressed by the prices, but considerably more so by the quality of the food offerings at Dabass.

I of course went with the tasting menu, starting off with a Poached egg in a sauce of risotto alla Milanese with crispy bacon. This savory dish will dazzle your taste buds. It’s like an Eggs benedict on crack cocaine, thanks to the delicious saffron-based sauce and guanciale bacon. This is the best dish I’ve had this year. Chapeau Chef.

**Poached egg in a sauce of risotto alla Milanese with crispy bacon**

Next up, the mini pulled pork burger. There aren’t enough curse words in the English language to emphasize the amazing beauty and flavor of this sandwich. This is probably the best fucking pulled pork I’ve ever had.

Next up was Sardines in Saor, the well-known Venetian dish. Although a step down in terms of eye candy, it was delicious and worthy of its third position on the tasting menu. From there, it was a spicy and delicious chick pea minestra. I was happy because I was eating something healthy which also tasted great.

Just as I was about to salute the staff and head home, I was informed that the chef wanted to have me try one more thing, reminiscent of the product launches at the end of Steve Job’s key note addresses. I peered into the kitchen and saw that Andrea was busy working away at a risotto. I knew that I was in for something special.

The luscious white risotto was placed in front of me and my heart skipped a beat - the amazing aroma rising up from his beautifully al dente risotto was reminiscent of something quite familiar and pleasurable - Cacio e Pepe, which happens to be my favorite pasta in the world (check out my new blog “solo cacio e pepe” if you also suffer from this addiction). In Andrea’s risotto rendition of cacio e pepe, he adds lemon to give a better balance to the savory recipe. I’m not sure this dish is a regular on the ever-changing menu at Dabass but I highly encourage you to get on your hands and knees to beg Andrea to make it for you.

So that’s it – 5 dishes: 3 home runs, and 2 solid efforts. I can’t wait for my repeat visit to try Andrea’s other creations at Dabass. This is without a doubt, the best casual food experience in Milano.