shane eaton 10/31/25 shane eaton 10/31/25

Sessant’anni di eccellenza: Santa Sofia celebra Gioè e Montegradella a Voce Aimo e Nadia

Oggi ho avuto il privilegio di partecipare a un pranzo esclusivo nella sala privata di Voce Aimo e Nadia, per celebrare il 60º anniversario di due vini simbolo della Cantina Santa Sofia : Gioè e Montegradella. Un evento raffinato, dove gli straordinari Valpolicella della storica azienda di Pedemonte sono stati abbinati con maestria alle creazioni dello chef Lorenzo Pesci, in un’esperienza orchestrata da Veronique Enderlin di Les Enderlin & Partner, dalla wine consultant Anna Caprini e da Luciano Begnoni, attuale guida di Santa Sofia.

La storia di Gioè nasce nel 1967, quando Giancarlo Begnoni, enologo e proprietario di Santa Sofia, rimase affascinato da un Amarone proveniente da Monte Gradella: un vino dal colore rubino intenso, dagli aromi complessi e dal gusto pieno, armonioso, capace di raccontare la Valpolicella più autentica. Il primo Gioè fu in realtà prodotto dall’annata 1964, e da allora viene realizzato solo nelle vendemmie eccezionali, quando Corvina, Corvinone e Rondinella raggiungono la perfetta maturazione in un vigneto di 3 ettari situato tra i 195 e i 325 metri di altitudine. Dopo 100 giorni di appassimento, il vino affina per 42 mesi in botti di rovere e per almeno quattro anni in bottiglia, evolvendo in un Amarone di straordinaria struttura e personalità — ideale con carni importanti o formaggi stagionati come lo Storico Ribelle. Un vino che incarna il tempo, la pazienza e la visione di una famiglia.

Il Montegradella Valpolicella Classico Superiore proviene da 24 ettari di vigneti situati tra Fumane e Marano, su suoli calcarei e marnosi. Nato nel 1965, fu concepito per elevare il Valpolicella al livello di prestigio dei grandi rossi toscani e piemontesi, grazie a un affinamento accurato in legno e in bottiglia. Con un appassimento di 30 giorni e 18 mesi di maturazione in legno, questo vino sviluppa un profilo elegante e armonioso, con note di prugna, ciliegia e vaniglia, e un equilibrio che lo rende versatile e intramontabile.

Il pranzo-degustazione da Voce Aimo e Nadia è stato, senza dubbio, uno dei più memorabili degli ultimi anni. Tra i piatti protagonisti, i tubettini al ragù d’agnello abbinati al raffinato e bilanciato Montegradella Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2022, e il piccione en croûte con funghi, foie gras e un tocco di lavanda, perfettamente accompagnato dal Gioè Amarone 2016, vino complesso, vellutato e di grande eleganza.

Due fuori menu hanno aggiunto ulteriore magia all’esperienza, tra cui un sorprendente Montegradella Valpolicella Classico Superiore 1967, ancora vitale e vibrante nonostante l’età. Nel corso del pranzo, lo chef Lorenzo Pesci ha reso omaggio al maestro Aimo Moroni con la leggendaria Zuppa Etrusca — una creazione che resta scolpita nella memoria per intensità e armonia.

Gioè e Montegradella rappresentano a pieno lo stile Santa Sofia: equilibrio, autenticità e capacità di esprimere il territorio in chiave contemporanea. Oggi Luciano Begnoni prosegue il percorso tracciato dal padre Giancarlo, puntando su sostenibilità, ricerca e innovazione in cantina, con l’obiettivo di produrre vini longevi, identitari e di ottima qualità. Una celebrazione che non è solo anniversario, ma affermazione di una filosofia enologica che continua a evolvere senza perdere le proprie radici.

Montegradella 2022 with tubettini with lamb ragu

Chef Lorenzo Pesci with Torta delle Rose

English version

Today, I had the honor of attending an exclusive lunch in a private room at Voce Aimo e Nadia, celebrating the 60th anniversary of two historic Santa Sofia wines: Gioè and Montegradella. These exceptional Valpolicella wines were paired with the exquisite creations of chef Lorenzo Pesci, in an event hosted by Veronique Enderlin of Les Enderlin & Partner, wine consultant Anna Caprini, and Luciano Begnoni of Santa Sofia.

The story of Gioè began in 1967, when Giancarlo Begnoni, winemaker and owner of Santa Sofia, was captivated by an Amarone from Monte Gradella: a wine with an intense ruby hue, layered aromas, and a full, harmonious taste. first Gioè was produced from the 1964 vintage, and since then, it has been crafted only in exceptional years, when Corvina, Corvinone, and Rondinella grapes reach perfect ripeness in a 3-hectare vineyard situated between 195 and 325 meters above sea level. Following 100 days of drying, the wine matures for 42 months in oak barrels and at least four years in the bottle, yielding an Amarone of remarkable structure and personality—ideal with rich meats or aged cheeses such as Storico Ribelle.

Montegradella Valpolicella Classico Superiore is cultivated on 24 hectares of vineyards between Fumane and Marano, on limestone and marl soils. First produced in 1965, it was designed to elevate Valpolicella wines to the prestige of Tuscany and Piedmont through careful oak aging and bottle refinement. With a 30-day drying period and 18 months in wood, the wine develops an intense, harmonious profile with notes of plum, cherry, and vanilla—elegant, versatile, and balanced.

The wine-paired lunch at Voce Aimo e Nadia was one of the finest I’ve experienced in years. Highlights included heavenly tubettini with lamb ragu paired with the refined and balanced Montegradella Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2022, and pigeon en croute with mushrooms and foie gras accented with lavender, perfectly complemented by th full-bodied, complex, and velvety Gioè Amarone 2016.

Two “fuori menu” surprises further elevated the experience, including a 1967 Montegradella Valpolicella Classico Superiore, which retained remarkable vibrancy despite its age. Between courses, Lorenzo Pesci paid homage to Aimo with the iconic Zuppa Etrusca—a soup that may well be the best I’ve ever tasted.

Amarone Gioè and Montegradella Valpolicella Classico Superiore exemplify Santa Sofia’s distinctive style and harmonized beautifully with the dishes at Voce Aimo e Nadia. Today, Luciano Begnoni continues his father Giancarlo’s tradition, emphasizing sustainability and innovative cellar practices to produce long-lived, characterful wines of authentic quality.

shane eaton 10/29/25 shane eaton 10/29/25

Venice Cocktail Week 2025

Photos courtesy of Venice Cocktail Week (Marco Cellai and Mike Tamasco) and NH Collection Venezia Grand Hotel Palazzo dei Dogi.

From October 22 to 26, 2025, Venice came alive with the fourth edition of Venice Cocktail Week — five spirited days celebrating great drinks, good company, and the city’s unique mixology scene. Curated by Paola Mencarelli and her team, the festival brought together 28 of Venice’s best cocktail and hotel bars, with over a hundred events that showcased creativity behind the bar and encouraged a culture of mindful drinking. Italian partners including Campari, Altamura, Mancino, Frantoio di Sant’Agata d’Oneglia, and Polot 1882 joined international brands such as Michter’s, Los Siete Misterios, Nikka, and Cachaça Blu in supporting the week’s events.

This year’s VCW25 was as even more international than ever, featuring guest bartenders such as Poroto from Baker’s Montevideo, Jessica Zaetta from Sips Barcelona, Miriam Nini of Stella Bar Bangkok, Benedetta Di Pietro of London, Evica Domonji from Mirror Bar Bratislava and Steven Rhea of Aman New York.

I joined the celebration for the final three days, starting Friday October 24th evening at the NH Collection Venezia Grand Hotel Palazzo dei Dogi. Set in the hotel’s lush garden, the event was dedicated to Nikka Whisky, enjoyed both neat and in elegant highball cocktails crafted by Rachele Riccio. Each sip was paired with Tuscan cigars, introduced by expert Stefano Fanticelli of Club Amici del Toscano, who taught us the art of choosing, cutting, lighting, and savoring them.

To end the evening on a sweet note, Michelin-starred chef Paolo Airaudo of Da Lorenzo – Al Giardino Segreto surprised us with a playful treat: Sigaro Dolce, a cocoa cannolo filled with tangy Girgentana goat ricotta, orange zest, and a charcoal crumble — a clever nod to the cigar theme.

Afterward, a few of us food and beverage journalists were invited to an intimate dinner at Da Lorenzo, warmly welcomed by General Manager Raffaello Panariello as well as resident chef Salvatore Paladino and sous chef Alfonso Esposito Ferraioli. The 11-course tasting menu captured Airaudo’s vision of contemporary Italian cuisine — refined yet deeply rooted in tradition, and inspired by the legacy of Lorenzo Patarol, creator of the restaurant’s surrounding botanical garden.

The experience was beautifully paced, full of bold, layered flavors. Standouts included hamachi amberjack crudo with spiced fennel juice, duck cappelletti with butter and thyme, and monkfish served with bagna cauda and Swiss chard. And then, the dessert — easily one of the best I’ve had in years — a delicate panna cotta with sweet potato caramel, crumble, and a drizzle of 25-year-aged Bonini balsamic vinegar from Modena. A perfect ending to a remarkable weekend in Venice.

After dinner, we were treated to a wild night of exquisite cocktails crafted by Benedetta Di Pietro (London) and Mattia Capezzuoli (Hotel de Russie, Rome) at the Experimental Cocktail Club, in an event sponsored by Altamura and Velier.

On Saturday, I spent most of my time at the majestic The Bar at Aman Venice. I arrived at noon for the launch of the sixth issue of Coqtail Magazine, accompanied by drinks from guest bartender Steven Rhea of Aman New York, in an event sponsored by Altamura. Later that evening, we enjoyed visually stunning cocktails by Evica Domonji from Mirror Bar Bratislava, sponsored by Lucano.

Sunday, October 26, featured the best drink I had all week, courtesy of Ginevra Gabbrielli of RAARO Firenze. At her pop-up at Alchemia Bar, Ca' di Dio, she served La Serenissima, a heavenly mix of Cachaca Blu Carvalho, Dry Umami Baldoria vermouth, salted butter, and pecorino with Yerbito.

Perhaps the highlight of VCW25 was the Closing Party at the Arts Bar, The St. Regis Venice. This invitation-only event marked the grand finale of the festival in one of Venice’s most iconic hotels, featuring the Arts Bar team led by Food & Beverage Director Facundo Gallegos and Bar Manager Ludwig Negri. It was thrilling to reconnect with so many industry friends at this star-studded event. I also had the chance to visit the classic Main Bar at The St. Regis Venice, where I enjoyed some fine classics from the bar team, including a delicious Michter’s Rye Old Fashioned.

A huge thank you to Paola Mencarelli for the kind invitation to VCW25 and for everything you’ve done for the Italian cocktail industry. I wish you every success for your future events, including Florence Cocktail Week, taking place from April 16 to 22, 2026.