Shane Experience
I’ve had the pleasure of living in Milano for the past 15 years, and over that time, I’ve discovered some truly enchanting places to drink, eat and live well. My palate has evolved considerably since the early transitional years in Milano. Way back in 2011, you could find me drinking Long Island iced teas, but today, you’re more likely to see me sipping a Boulevardier or Martini cocktail. Pre-Expo, I admit that I knew very little about Italian food. I ate pizza that had the consistency of a grissino and had a serious lack of knowledge of Milanese, let alone other regional specialties.
But I hung in there, trying to my best to go out every night to discover the beauty of this city and country. Food, wine and beer festivals. Travels around Lombardy and beyond. After a few years of pushing as hard as I could to immerse myself in the culture and cuisine, I finally felt like I fit in. Fast forward to today, and my friends often comment that I am more Milanese than them.
It brings me great pleasure to show those I care for about the beauty of Milano through eating, drinking, and living. And so, I share with you here the best of my Milano.
Coffee
Orsonero. Although you will find me around town drinking mediocre coffee at many random “bar sport” and even cocktail bars to power me through the day, Orsonero is my favorite option if I want a relaxing pourover of quality coffee. It also helps that I can speak “Canadian” with the founder Brent Jopson
Cocktails
1930, although not easy to access, offers the best speakeasy atmosphere in Milano, coupled with imaginative cocktails and well-executed classics. Make sure to meet the manager Benjamin Cavagna, one of the friendliest and most cultured people in the city. Check out the Pizza Marinara!
Biffi is my go-to pastry shop if I’m looking for the true milanese Martini cocktail experience. At aperitivo time from 5PM to 7PM you will find the best of Milano devouring barista Paolo’s in-and-out Tanqueray martinis before they have to return home to their sciure (fancy milanese wives). If you’re up for a stronger “direct Martini”, check out the nearby Pasticceria San Carlo.
Bulgari hotel is my favorite hotel bar in Milano, thanks to the charming bar manager Patrick Greco and his friendly and beautiful bar team. Expect well-executed signatures, tasty aperitivo food, and always-interesting clientele at the bar counter.
Camparino. The mecca of aperitivo bars, Camparino is a must visit at Duomo. Even it’s only 11am, there is no excuse not to stop by for a Garibaldi, Lavorato Secco or Campari Seltz.
Ceresio is perhaps the coolest bar in the city thanks to its spectacular pool area, slick bar counter and stunning interior. Abi runs the bar program and has some of the best signature cocktails in the city. No trip to Ceresio is complete without a poolside martini served from Abi’s new trolley.
Moebius is a gorgeous restaurant and bar with delicious tapas-style food to compliment an excellent drink list. If you’re looking for a more extravagant meal, there is also Enrico Croatti’s outstanding haute cuisine upstairs. Moebius is one of my favorite late night options, as the owner Lorenzo Querci seems to always have an exciting event going on.
MaG is where I first fell in love with cocktails in Milano, back in 2012. Thank you Flavio, Marco, Dracos, Pischello, Teo, Pippo, Elena, Cosimo, Mirko, Marianna, Ema, Federica, Nico, Bonazzi, Nish, Benji and the many other great people who’ve always made me feel at home.
Nottingham Forest. Dario Comini of Nottingham Forest was the first to bring innovative kitchen and science techniques to drink making and has an ever-evolving menu of eye-catching and delectable liquid creations. Expect a slightly younger crowd these days thanks to the power of social media, but you’ll always find the loyal customers at the bar counter, drinking anything from a Mondrian to a Naked martini.
Rita/Rita Tiki. You are guaranteed to have a great time at Rita and Rita Tiki thanks to the welcoming staff, well-mixed drinks and eclectic and lively clientele. If I am in the mood to discover a little known classic, Massimo and Edo at Rita are two of my reference points in Milano. And if I am seeking a meditation-style after-dinner rum or Ti’ Punch, I will happily pull up a bar stool in front of Alessandro at Rita Tiki.
Rumore is the most exciting opening in Milano in the past months and features Sossio Del Prete, one of the best bartending talents in the country.
The Spirit boasts the most beautiful bar counter in Milano, The Spirit is a fantastic after dinner choice for a stirred down boozy concoction. The classics are meticulously crafted thanks to the leadership of bar manager Ivan Filippelli.
ByIT is a chic hybrid of a high-end cocktail bar and a gourmet bistro located in the heart of Brera. The venue centers around a striking "ring" bar where Bar Manager Dario Schiavoni (formerly of the Bulgari Bar in Dubai) orchestrates a sophisticated mixology program. The atmosphere is undeniably Milanese—elegant, warm, and lively, with a design that encourages social interaction over hushed privacy.
Ally’s stands as the flagship bar for Langosteria, a brand that needs no introduction. The atmosphere strikes a perfect balance: intimate and alluring, yet undeniably fun. Bar Manager Stefano Agostino leads a stellar team—including Cosimo Tarducci and Giuseppe Capuano—in delivering masterfully executed twists on classic cocktails. Expect nothing less than perfection, complete with beautiful glassware and hand-carved ice.
Yapa. At Yapa, the cocktails are just as impressive as the cuisine. Bar Manager Matias Sarli brings a nomadic, culinary approach to mixology, treating the bar like a high-end kitchen. You have to try the Deep Sea—an earthy, savory masterpiece that fuses Neit whiskey and Fino sherry with mesmerizing kombu and porcini dashi, finished with a spicy kick of chipotle.
Wine
Cantine Isola has the largest selection of wines in Milano, even if most of them are secured by lock and key and only accessible by the owner Luca Sarais. Cantine Isola is always busy, crammed in the tight space inside, but also outside on Via Paolo Sarpi. Across the street, don’t miss the vegetarian crepes at Ravioleria Sarpi. Thanks to Matt Rooney for helping me discover the magic of this place.
Concorrenza is a must when visiting Milano. Enricomaria Porta together with partners chef Diego Rossi and entrepreneur Josef Khattabi have created an Osteria with an authentic old-school vibe, a rarity for Milano. Expect outstanding wines together with exquisite small dishes designed for sharing. Concorrenza is one of the hardest tickets in town, so book a week in advance.
Salumeria Mazzone if your best choice if you would like salumi and cheeses coupled with superb wines. Located in the Via Washington district in West Milano, Mazzone is well worth the trek for its second to none food and wine.
Beer
Birrificio Lambrate aka the Skunky is a brewpub in Via Aldechi near Lambrate station that opened over 20 years ago. Frequented by a decidedly stoner/metalhead crowd, Birri is an institution in Milano for beer lovers. Although the crowd is a bit rough, the dive bar ambiance is awesome. My favorite beers at BL are Robb de Matt (IPA), Gaina (IPA), Porpora (Dunkel bock) and Ghisa (smoked stout). For a larger food selection with a tamer crowd, try their newer location in Via Golgi near Politecnico di Milano.
Lambiczoon is home to the best sour beers and hamburgers in Milano. Now owned by Adriana and Manuel, Lambiczoon continues to be my favorite pub in town. I am eternally grateful to Lambiczoon for getting me into the exciting gueuze beer category.
Whisky
Harp Pub Guinness. From Angelo Corbetta and sons, Harp Pub Guinness, the first place to call itself a pub in Milano, has nearly 50 years of tradition in East Milano. Open from lunch until after dinner, you can find tasty but casual eats during the day and well-made cocktails from Riccardo in the evening. If you’re lucky to meet Angelo, ask about trying one of the fine whiskies or bourbons from his impressive collection.
Mulligan’s. From brothers Beppe e Alviero Bertoni, Mulligan’s is a true Irish pub, offering authentic Irish food, quality draft beers and outstanding whisk(e)y and rum. Mulligan’s together with Harp Pub Guinness carry on the strong Milanese whisky tradition first introduced by Giorgio D’Ámbrosio of Bar Metro.
Pizza
Giolina. The best pizza talent in Milano, Danilo Brunetti is a genius when it comes to innovative dough recipes. Taking inspiration from haut cuisine, Danilo brilliantly combines unique ingredients on his signature pizzas. Do not miss the “Quattro pomodori”" marinara and "Cinque formaggi” masterpieces. I put Giolina together with 50 Kalo’ Naples as my favorite pizzerie in Italy.
Modus. From appetizers, to inventive pizzas to fried dishes, Paolo De Simone’s cuisine will always impress you.
Dry. Pizzaiolo Lorenzo Sirabella will wow you with his modern Neopolitan reinterpreations of the classics. Don’t miss his Pizza Margherita with Provala. Dry is also home to one of the most stacked bar teams in Milano featuring Edris, Vincenzo and Marco.
Confine. Despite the haters for the haute cuisine format, Confine offers one of the best dining experiences in Milano. There’s no point calling it a pizzeria, just as there is no point comparing Confine to other pizzerias in Milano or around the world: at Confine they have elevated the traditional pizzeria experience to a completely new level. Although pizza remains the protagonist, Confine offers a fine dining experience along with exceptional wines and a lively atmosphere.
Dining
Fiore. Fiore Food and Drink, is one of the last remaining casual dining gems in the city. Don’t be fooled by its bar sport/tabaccheria appearance, Fiore will wow you its food, which includes the best cotoletta alla milanese in the city. Also not to be missed are the salumi and first courses.
Nino is an evolution of the modern Milanese tavern, brought to you by the team behind Trippa. Located in Via Nino Bixio, it trades the rustic clutter of a traditional osteria for a polished, retro-chic aesthetic featuring high ceilings, dark wood, and a listening bar vibe. The menu, helmed by Chef Marco Marini, is dynamic and designed for sharing, focusing on market-fresh ingredients with creative twists—standouts are the signature pigeon pie, and caesar salad with cotechino.
Frangente is a lively modern osteria where Federico Sisti blends his Romagna roots with Milanese tradition. The atmosphere is relaxed and convivial, centered around an open kitchen where diners can watch the team execute a menu known for its focus on "quinto quarto" (offal). Two unmissable signature dishes are the tripe, cut thin like noodles and stewed in a spicy tomato sauce and the Cappelletti served with butter, aged vinegar and tuna bottarga.
Trippa. An elegant vitello tonnato, a fried to perfection tripe and an umami bomb pasta in bianco. If these aren’t reasons enough to visit, rest assured that the menu changes regularly at Diego Rossi’s Trippa, where you can find elevated quinto quarto cuisine that puts most Michelin star eateries to shame. But for Diego, Trattoria Trippa was always about feeding his food-loving guests with the best possible Italian dishes at a reasonable price, without worrying about the stress of winning international awards.
L’Alchimia Ristorante & Lounge Bar is an elegant yet easygoing restaurant and cocktail bar by Alberto Tasinato and chef Giuseppe Postorini in Viale Premuda. Chef Giuseppe Postorini has developed an outstanding menu of improved renditions of traditional dishes from Piedmont and Lombardy. A must is the Risotto Milanese Style with marrowbone royale, foie gras and black truffle. The wine cellar is packed the brim with stars from Piedmont and beyond, such as the phenomenal Barolos from Cordero di Montezemolo.
Yapa offers a vibrant nomadic dining experience blending Mediterranean, Asian, and South American influences in a chic, industrial-minimalist setting. Chef Matteo Pancetti translates his global travels into inventive fusion plates; standouts include Jamon de Tuna with Otoro, capers, lemon, and caper leaves, and Pork Fried Rice with Jasmine rice, pork neck, speck, black bean sauce, and vegetables. Don’t miss the rotating, never-disappointing tacos. Bartender Matias Sarli’s liquid kitchen elevates the experience with cocktails designed to mirror the food’s culinary profiles.
Contraste. I first discovered Matias Perdomo's cuisine when he was at Pont de Ferr, a restaurant in Ripa di Porta Ticinese that I visited many times in my first years in Milano. Pont de Ferr was a casual trattoria with a refined but playful cuisine thanks to the creativity of Perdomo. Despite its laid back atmosphere, Pont de Ferr defied all odds, winning a Michelin star in 2011. But chef Perdomo was aiming for an even more ambitious venture: Contraste, which he opened in 2015 together with two other stars from the Pont de Ferr team, sommelier Thomas Piras and sous chef Simon Press. Unlike Pont de Ferr, Contraste's atmosphere is elegant and chic. The bright room has white walls, red chandeliers and six round tables. The menu "riflesso" reflected with a mirror on the cover makes it clear that the diner is at the center of the experience. The staff asks you about your preferences and studies you discreetly during dinner, so that they can design a "tailor made" itinerary, also for your future visits. One highlight for me was “Spaghetti alle vongole” with ravioli filled with the sauce left from cooking spaghetti with clams.
Il Martinista a Milano
Nel 2018, stanco degli eccessi di una mixology massimalista, ho sposato l’estetica dei Martinisti italiani: essenziale, pulita, priva di fronzoli. La mia ricetta è volutamente estrema: 20 parti di London Dry e una di vermouth, sigillata dagli oli essenziali del limone. Tecnicamente sbilanciato? Senza dubbio. Ma il Martini, per me, è un gesto prima che una formula: un fugace “momento Bond” che non appartiene a un luogo fisico, ma a uno stato d’animo.
David Wondrich lo ha definito meglio di chiunque altro: “un’invenzione più grande della vita… così nitida, pulita e letale che ti taglia la testa mentre le gambe continuano a camminare.” Che sia nato al Knickerbocker di New York nel 1912 o sia l'evoluzione del Martinez ottocentesco, nel 2025 resta il cocktail iconico per eccellenza.
Eppure, continuo a credere che la sua vera capitale non sia Londra né New York, ma Milano. Qui il Martini è cultura quotidiana: vive nelle storiche pasticcerie come Biffi, Marchesi, Ginrosa e San Carlo. Luoghi che scivolano con naturalezza dal cappuccino mattutino all’aperitivo serale, veri santuari per i Martinisti. La città custodisce anche pezzi di storia tangibile: il Nottingham Forest ospita il bancone originale del Knickerbocker, mentre l’Harp Pub Guinness serve il “Direct Martini” dal 1976.
Ecco i luoghi di culto del Martini milanese.
Biffi è il simbolo dell’eleganza milanese. Si beve solo in piedi, in un ambiente che è l’antitesi raffinata dell’Happy Hour moderno. Dalle 17 alle 19 il bancone in zinco si riempie di Martini perfettamente ghiacciati, mentre d’estate i tavolini esterni diventano il regno dei Martinisti.
Niente buffet: qui l’aperitivo è ancora un rituale vero, pensato per aprire lo stomaco, non per riempirlo. La casa serve un Tanqueray London Dry gelato, preparato “in and out” dal bartender Paolo Monopoli — il vermouth tocca appena il ghiaccio e scompare. La clientela è storica, ma sempre più giovani stanno riscoprendo questo stile. Gli insider — come Daniele Poggi e Francesco Pelagi di Direct Martini — ottengono anche una versione non diluita. Da mangiare, i classici: tartine all’acciuga minuscole e l’ormai leggendario uovo tonnato.
Come sintetizza Beppe Deregibus, habitué storico: “Il bancone del Biffi è il punto di ritrovo più fedele dei Martinisti milanesi. Il vero magnete è Paolo e il suo dry martini versato sempre fino all’orlo. È un luogo dove la costanza è tutto.”
Beppe si gode il Martini da Biffi
Per i cultori del bere bene a Milano, il Direct Martini di Angelo Corbetta all’Harp Pub Guinness è più di un cocktail: è un’istituzione. Sebbene l'atmosfera richiami pinte di scura, gli iniziati sanno che qui si ordina un solo capolavoro: il Martini di Angelo. Un drink pulito, rigoroso e dalla beva straordinaria.
La filosofia di Angelo è scolpita nel tempo: “Il Martini deve essere ghiacciato, forte e diretto,” spiega. “Una poeisa da sorseggiare lentamente, lasciando che il calore della bocca sprigioni un’esplosione di aromi e colori. È un rito che si ripete identico dai primi anni '70.”
Tecnicamente, Angelo resta fedele al Tanqueray London Dry (43%), che considera ancora imbattibile nonostante i cambiamenti storici della gradazione, pur aprendosi recentemente a etichette come Vallombrosa (47%) e Farmer’s (48%). Il segreto è la temperatura: gin e bicchiere riposano in freezer, creando una texture densa, quasi cremosa. Il bicchiere viene appena 'sporcato' di Noilly Prat e profumato con gli oli essenziali di una scorza di limone che poi scompare.
Il fascino vero, però, risiede nel paradosso: gustare un Martini da grand hotel in un pub del 1976, tra legni scuri e studenti, trovando l'eleganza dove meno te l'aspetti.
Angelo Corbetta con un Direct Martini
Al Nottingham Forest, i Martini-lovers formano un gruppo a sé. Se guardi oltre il décor da film d’avventura, li riconosci subito. Non sono qui per gli effetti speciali, ma per il bancone: una reliquia recuperata dal Knickerbocker Hotel di New York, il luogo dove — secondo una delle versioni — è nato il Martini nel 1912 per John D. Rockefeller.
Come al Biffi, i Martinisti sono milanesi impeccabili che trattano lo sgabello come una piccola navata. Mentre la fila fuori aspetta 45 minuti per le creazioni molecolari di Dario Comini, loro conoscono il ritmo giusto: arrivare all’apertura, alle 18 della domenica. Una routine che sembra quasi un rito. E mentre tutto attorno è un teatro di fumo e magia, loro sono il punto fermo.
Il Naked (Direct) Martini di Comini, fatto con I.gin.0 del locale, è la scelta più comune. Ma la forza del Martini sta nella sua natura camaleontica. “Ognuno ha un’idea diversa di perfezione,” spiega Dario. “Ogni Martini è unico.” Tra le sue creazioni, il Mondrian Martini: un omaggio al De Stijl, con capsule sferificate di Campari, vodka allo zafferano, assenzio e Pimm’s immerse in un martini cristallino.
Come riassume Daniele Poggi: “Il Nottingham Forest è l’essenza del Martini. Con le sue sfumature infinite e le sue sorprese, è una tappa obbligata. Ogni visita è un viaggio nel suo universo.”
Dario Comini al Nottingham Forest
The Martinista in Milano
By 2018, seeking an antidote to the fatigue of maximalist mixology, I embraced the ethos of the Italian Martinisti: clean, crisp, and stripped of all frills. My personal specification is aggressive—a 20:1 ratio of London Dry to vermouth, finished with essential oils from a lemon. While technically unbalanced, this drink is less about the mechanics and more about the ritual; a fleeting "Bond moment" that transcends geography.
As David Wondrich famously observed, the Martini is "a larger-than-life invention... so sharp, clean, and deadly that it cuts the head off while the legs keep walking." Whether it was born at New York's Knickerbocker in 1912 or evolved from the 1860s Martinez, it remains the essential cocktail of 2025.
Yet, I maintain that the true capital of the Martini is neither London, with the Connaught’s theatrical service, nor New York, with its wetter vodka-based riffs—but Milano. Here, the culture is woven into the fabric of daily life, thriving in historic pasticcerie like Biffi, Marchesi, Ginrosa, and San Carlo. These venues shift effortlessly from morning espresso to evening aperitivo, acting as magnets for the dedicated Martinista. For the true believer, the city offers deep history: Nottingham Forest holds the original Knickerbocker bar top, while Harp Pub Guinness has been pouring the "Direct Martini" since 1976. Below I highlight a few of the Martinista’s favorite meeting points in Milano.
Pasticceria Biffi
Pasticceria Biffi stands as a fortress of Old Guard Milanese etiquette, offering a refined, standing-room-only experience that is the sophisticated antithesis of the modern, chaotic Happy Hour. Between 5 pm and 7 pm, the zinc counter becomes a sea of V-shaped glasses, confirming its status as the sanctuary for true Martinisti. Come summer, Martinisti claim the outdoor tables, sipping glasses filled precariously to the brim.
Biffi strictly rejects the heavy buffet trend in favor of a classic pre-dinner ritual designed to whet the appetite rather than spoil the meal. The house standard is a freezing, textbook Tanqueray London Dry prepared "in and out" (vermouth is used only to rinse the ice) by experienced bartender Paolo Monopoli. While the demographic leans toward distinguished older gentlemen, a younger crowd is discovering this tradition, with insiders—like Daniele Poggi and Francesco Pelagi of Direct Martini—even securing a special non-diluted pour upon request. To accompany the Martini, expect Biffi’s renowned savory pastries, specifically the tiny anchovy tartines and the coveted uovo tonnato (hard-boiled egg with tuna sauce).
The allure of Biffi is perhaps best articulated by loyal patron Beppe Deregibus: “The bar at Biffi boasts the city's most devoted gathering of Martinisti. Here, the draw is bartender Paolo and his perfectly executed in and out dry Martini, poured to the very top of the glass. It is a place of rare consistency, where many faces in the crowd have been daily clients for an entire lifetime.”
An afternoon Martini with Beppe at Biffi
Harp Pub Guinness
Based on the local lore of the Martinisti in Milano, the Direct Martini served by Angelo Corbetta at Harp Pub Guinness is a cult classic that defies the venue's Irish pub exterior. While most expect a pint of stout, those in the know ask "The Boss" (Angelo) for his martini, which is unpretentious, technically precise, and dangerously drinkable.
Accoring to Angelo, “The perfect Martini must be glacial, potent, and straightforward. It demands to be sipped slowly, resting on the palate just long enough for the bouquet to burst open, delivering a spectrum of fantastic sensations. This is the precise ritual we have maintained since the early 1970s.”
Angelo is an unapologetic loyalist to Tanqueray London Dry (43%), famously stating in interviews that "despite the drop in ABV over the years, it remains the best gin on the market." However, in recent years, Angelo has begun to take a liking to Vallombrosa (47%) and Farmer’s (48%). In true Milanese "Direct" style, both the gin and the classic V-shaped glass are kept in the deep freeze. The gin is poured thick and syrupy, directly from the freezer to the glass. A whisper of Noilly dry vermouth is used to coat the frozen glassware before pouring the icecold gin, leaving only the aromatic memory of the fortified wine. As a garnish, a lemon peel is expressed over the surface to release the oils (but then discarded), adding a bright citrus nose to cut through the cold juniper.
What makes this Martini iconic is the setting. You are drinking a world-class, sophisticated cocktail in a historic 1976 pub filled with dark wood, brass taps, and university students, served by one of the classiest gentleman in Milano. It is an unexpected moment of elegance in a casual setting.
Ylenia “Fragola” prepara un Direct Martini al Pub
Nottingham Forest
At Nottingham Forest, the Martini drinkers are a distinct tribe. If you look past the Indiana Jones’ attic décor, you will spot them. These sophisticated patrons aren't here for smoking guns or evocative garnishes; they are here for the wood their elbows rest upon. They know the bar counter itself is a holy relic—salvaged from the Knickerbocker Hotel in New York, the very place where the martini was rumored to be invented in 1912 for John D. Rockefeller.
Much like at Biffi, the Martinisti of Nottingham Forest are often well-dressed Milanese who treat the barstool like a church pew. While the line outside is full of tourists waiting 45 minutes to witness owner Dario Comini's molecular magic, the veteran Martini drinker knows the rhythm. They arrive right at opening—6 PM on Sundays—making this tradition akin to evening mass. While the rest of the bar is a frenzied theater of smoke and mirrors, these drinkers are the calm eye of the storm, quietly worshipping at the most important slab of wood in cocktail history.
Martinisti here often order Dario’s Naked (Direct) Martini made with Nottingham Forest’s own I.gin.0, but the beauty of this classic is its versatility. "We all have different tastes and ideas of what makes the perfect Martini," Comini explains. "Each Martini is individual and unique." One such variation is his signature Mondrian Martini—a molecular tribute to De Stijl art featuring a clear dry martini base housing spherified liquid capsules of red Campari, yellow saffron vodka, green absinthe, and dark Pimm’s.
As regular customer and Martinista Daniele Poggi explains, "Nottingham Forest is the very essence of the Martini. With its infinite nuances and unexpected combinations, it's an essential destination...Every visit is a true journey into its most surprising universe."
The author patiently awaiting the opening of Nottingham Forest
