La Dogana del Buongusto / by shane eaton

pasta squisita e vino da sogno :: voto  8.5/10 :: €40 per vino, primo e secondo

La Dogana del Buongusto si trova in Via Molino delle Armi vicino alle Colonne di San Lorenzo.  Il locale è diviso su due piani: sopra c'è lo spazio aperitivo, con un bel bancone e una vasta scelta di vini interessanti. Giù ci sono tre sale eleganti per cenare. 

L'antipasto era un buon inizio al pasto: tartare di manzo con una salsa al tartufo e la burrata. Il primo per me era il piatto della serata: i testaroli (pasta fresca maltagliata della Liguria/Toscana) con zucca e amaretto. Di solito non mi fa impazzire la zucca ma qui la sua dolcezza si sposava molto bene con l'amaretto e la pasta fresca. Avrei fatto il bis dei testaroli se me l'avessero proposto!

L'ultimo piatto di polenta e cinghiale era l'ideale per la serata invernale. In abbinamento c'era l'incredibile Barbera d'Alba (Peiragal) di Marchesi di Barolo. Ho bevuto 4 bicchieri di questo vino strepitoso!

Tutto sommato, l'esperienza alla Dogana del Buongusto era molto positiva. Vini eccellenti, uno staff gentile (soprattutto Martina e il proprietario Niccolò) e cibo delizioso.

Aggiornamento 5/9/2016: Guglielmo Arnulfo è il nuovo chef della Dogana. Arnulfo propone una cucina contemporanea e classica allo stesso tempo, profumata e colorata, ispirata alle tradizioni italiane. Non vedo l'ora di provare la sua cucina interessante, che lo ha portato a cucinare a eventi importati come Taste of London e per l’Ambasciatore Italiano a Londra. 

 

Thanks to Debora of Zomato, I had the chance to try Dogana del Buongusto near le Colonne in Miano. Walking by you would never notice it - it's located in a historic building but it's hard to spot as you walk along Via Molino delle Armi. 

There is no ground floor at Dogana, which part of the appeal. Upstairs is my favorite part of the restaurant, which is meant for aperitif time. They also use the area for their many wine tastings/courses. The space is beautifully decorated with a main bar, behind which are many wonderful wines, mainly from Northern Italy. Downstairs is the main dining area, where we had our Zomato dinner with other famous food bloggers like Daniela and Francesca. It was not a normal dinner as there was a murder mystery play between courses with 3 talented actors. Half of our table was really into the mystery,  comunicating with the actors and looking for clues. I was part of the misfit half of the group, focused more on the wonderful food and wine at Dogana del Buongusto. The murder mystery is held occasionally and costs only €45 for 3 dishes including wine pairings. 

The antipasto was a great start to the meal: a delicious beef tartare with truffle sauce, served on burrata. It was paired with a great Grignolino from Marchesi di Barolo.

The first course was the highlight of the meal for me: testaroli (a hand cut fresh pasta from Liguria/Tuscany) with pumpkin and amaretto. I normally dislike pumpkin (zucca) in pasta because of its sweetness, but here it was perfectly balanced with the amaretto sprinkled on top. I would have easily had a bis of the testaroli! 

The final dish of polenta and cinghiale (wild boar) was a great dish for the rainy autumn evening. Outshining the food however was the unbelievable Barbera d'Alba (Peiragal) from Marchesi di Barolo. I must have had 4 glasses of it.

Overall the experience at Dogana del Buongusto was great. Amazing wines, friendly staff (especially the PR woman Martina and owner Niccolò) and delicious food. I hope they invite me back for the vertical of Nino Negri 5 stelle Sfursat, my favorite wine from Italy.