salumi eccellenti :: 9/10 :: degustazione di salumi e formaggi €25
Una delle migliori salumerie a Milano è Sapori Solari (Bande Nere). Abbiamo incontrato il proprietario più intelligente a Milano, che ha un salone pieno di clienti ed era solo martedì) senza un singolo metro quadrato per la cucina. Questa salumeria è il sogno e la passione di Giuseppe Loiacono che viaggiava in tutta Italia per trovare i migliori salumi e formaggi.
Il primo piatto (carpaccio) era decorato con le carni rosse all’esterno e le carni con più grassi nel centro. Nella fila in basso sono le fettine di manzo ‘Chianina’ dalla Toscana che è marinato con diverse spezie, effettivamente è una bresaola prematura che può essere curata, ma hanno deciso di servirla fresca per bloccare il vero gusto della Chianina; è servito con aromi vestiti da pepe nero e olio extravergine di oliva. Secondo noi questo era il migliore salume della serata - le note nascoste degli aromi assieme alla bresaola in gioventù esplodono nella bocca! Un altro salume interessante era ‘il Cecina de Leon’ della Spagna - questo manzo è stagionato in un ambiente naturale per 6 mesi e affumicato per 30 giorni con tre differenti tipi di legno.
Nel secondo piatto (crudo) la pila sulla destra è lo speck trattato con Barolo. Questa carne del Trentino è resa più prezioso dalla presenza del Ré dei vini. La pancetta di maiali cresciuti liberamente sulle montagne dell’Emilia Romagna è servita senza processi addizionali, ed è così tenera che si scioglie nella tua bocca. In questo piatto ci sono anche il capocollo e un prosciutto di Parma. Finalmente la carne più rosa nel centro del piatto è l’anatra affumicata.
Recensione e foto da Toney Teddy Fernandez. Traduzione in italiano da Yuchen Wang e Shane Eaton.
First plate: raw
Second plate: cured
Third plate: cooked
One of the best salumeria in Milano is Sapori Solari (Bande Nere). We have met the most clever bistro owner in Milano who has a large hall full of customers dining (it was only a tuesday) without having a single square meter of kitchen! This salumeria is the dream and passion of Giuseppe Loiacono who has travelled all over Italy for the past 10 years searching for the best cold cuts and cheeses. The focus here is only one salumi and formaggi, a not so common format.
We showed up early on a Tuesday evening, as we prefer less crowded nights so we can have more time to chat with the staff and take nicer photos. However within an hour the place was packed! The restaurant has a large single hall with their huge salami stall displaying their meat products. You can also be seated "al banco" which is directly in front of their friendly bar maid, just like in a cocktail bar. Apart from this large hall, there is another room, slightly raised from the restaurant floor, decorated with antiques and noticeably has two large carved vintage cushioned cozy chairs and a chandlier hanging from the ceiling.
The restaurant has a great list of wines from Italy which changes every week. We chose the tasting menu which is divided into three types, raw (carpaccio), cured (crudo) and cooked (cotto). They usually don't have a menu because the products are craft made so it is difficult for them to have a menu that they can respect.
The first plate (carpaccio) arrived on a large wooden log slice nicely decorated with red meat on the outside and meat with more fat on the inside. The bottom row is "Chianina" beef from Tuscany which is marinated with different spices which is actually a young bresaola and is ready to be cured, but they decided to serve it fresh to lock in the actual taste of the Chianina beef with herbs dressed in pepper and extra virgin oil. This dish was the best to our opinion, the tingling side note of herbs with young bresaola created taste explosions! The next row above it is smoked pork with a dressing of honey and in the third row from the bottom are two pieces of goose breasts in cold smoke. The top most row is "Cecina de Leon" beef from Spain - this beef is cured in a natural environment for 6 months and smoked for 30 days with three different woods, which you could appreciate while tasting the delicious meat.
In the second plate (crudo) the stack on the right is speck treated with Barolo. This Trentino meat definitely is made precious by the presence of the King of wines and makes for an amazing Trento-Piemonte collaboration. The pancetta of the free grown pigs from the mountains of Emilia Romagna is served untreated and is so soft that it will melt in your mouth. This plate also has the capocollo, Parma ham which is the second stack from the right side. Finally the most reddish meat in the plate in the center with fat overlay is the smoked duck.
The third and final plate is the cotto, the top left stack is the truffle mortadella made up of the cheek, throat and the belly. The distinct taste of truffle in your tounge makes this a noble one. The top right stack is rosa salami, the top center stack is beef and the bottom part of the plate is lamb.