The Cocochine (London)

Chef Larry Jayasekara of The Cocochine London (photo David Kaye)

Walking into Chef Larry Jayasekara’s The Cocochine feels less like entering a new Mayfair restaurant and more like stepping into a deeply personal, four-storey townhouse that has been thoughtfully curated over time. Every floor has its own mood and level of intimacy.

Below street level is the quiet, hushed wine cellar. There is even a small seating area right next to the racks where you can begin or extend your evening with a rare wine chosen from a collection built with incredible care.

On the ground floor, you find the heart of the house. It holds just eight generously spaced tables, seating 28 guests. With warm banquette seating and a buzz that never gets too loud, it feels intimate rather than claustrophobic. This is where you settle in for the à la carte menu, a three-course meal bookended by a parade of snacks and delicate petits fours. The pricing reflects the Mayfair postcode, but the quality completely backs it up.

However, the real action is Chef Larry’s tasting menu upstairs. Only seven guests sit at a counter overlooking the open kitchen, turning dinner into a natural conversation with the culinary team. Under a specially commissioned mosaic, the menu shifts constantly based on what is currently maturing at their farm.

The top floor is the most exclusive space, featuring a double-height private dining room for up to 14 guests, decorated with original art from Hamiltons Gallery. Here, Larry offers a culinary blank canvas. He mentions, with a quiet confidence, that if you give him enough notice, he will cook absolutely anything you want. There is even a fireplace to relax by with a post-dinner whisky or arrak.

While Larry’s foundations are rooted in classical French training, the soul of his food comes from his childhood memories in Sri Lanka, all grounded by fresh British produce. It is a style that manages to be technically rigorous yet incredibly warm. Dishes arrive with Michelin-level precision, but they speak a different language, one where curry leaves, coconut cream, kithul treacle, and pandan sit naturally alongside wild turbot and caviar.

The current menu feels like a chef at the absolute peak of his powers. Here is a look at what to expect during the meal.

Signature Rowler Farm Garden Salad, Nettle Pesto, Homemade Dressing

This is the farm on a plate. Larry hand-picks these leaves, herbs, and flowers during his weekly visits to Northamptonshire. Tossed with a pesto made from foraged nettles and a seasonal dressing. This extraordinary dish was the best salad I have ever had.

Sourdough with Rowler Farm Rosemary Butter, Glazed with Kithul & Sea Salt

Bread is a standalone highlight here. The substantial sourdough is made from grain that reflects the soil of Rowler Farm. It is served with butter made from the farm's own herbs and finished with a glaze of kithul, a sweet, faintly smoky treacle tapped from Sri Lankan fishtail palms, and a pinch of sea salt.

Sourdough

Ceylon King Crab Salad, Consommé, Apple

This dish connects directly to Larry's roots, pairing sweet king crab meat with a crystal-clear consommé of remarkable depth, balanced by the clean brightness of apple.

XXL Hand-Dived Scallop, Mushrooms, Pandan

These fist-sized scallops are hand-diver sourced from cold Scottish waters. Paired with earthy mushrooms and the sweet, grassy aroma of pandan, it is a combination of dramatic contrasts that works in total harmony.

Scallop

Fillet of Scottish Wild Turbot, Coconut, Spiced Wild Prawn Sauce

Wild Scottish turbot is a king ingredient in classical French cooking, but Larry gives it a completely fresh translation. The sauce is built from wild prawns, spiced with restraint and enriched with pure Sri Lankan coconut cream. This dish perfectly captures his culinary identity.

Banana Leaf BBQ Native Lobster, Rice Pot, Spices, Emulsion

Sweeter and more complex than its Canadian counterpart, the native lobster is wrapped in a banana leaf and cooked over an open flame. This ancient South Asian method protects the delicate meat while infusing it with a gentle, green smokiness. Served alongside a spiced rice pot and a silky emulsion, this was my favorite dish of the night.

Rowler Farm Dry-Aged Spring Lamb, Tomatoes, Black Pepper, Jus

The farm at its most direct. The spring lamb is dry-aged on-site to concentrate the flavor, then served with sweet tomatoes and the gentle heat of black pepper in a rich, glossy jus.

'Watalappam'

This dessert defines the restaurant. Watalappam is a traditional Sri Lankan steamed custard made with coconut milk, jaggery, and warm spices. Here, it is reimagined as a delicate crème caramel. Served with cool crème fraîche ice cream and a bold crown of golden Oscietra caviar, the briny minerality cuts through the sweetness with incredible precision.

Somewhere between the scallop and the turbot, you realize what makes The Cocochine so special. It isn't a restaurant just performing its influences or hiding behind generic terms like global flavors. It has found its own distinct language and speaks it fluently from the very first bite.